Finding Grottole

I am originally from the San Francisco Bay Area, and living in Italy was never part of a plan. For a long time, it felt out of reach—something admired from a distance rather than considered seriously. My path here was indirect, shaped by travel and by a growing sense that many places I passed through, while pleasant, did not feel like somewhere to put down roots.

I first lived for several years in Hoi An, Vietnam. While it was welcoming and easy to settle into, it eventually felt like a long visit rather than a place to belong. That realization led me to keep moving, searching for somewhere that felt grounded rather than temporary. I spent time in Portugal and Spain, and eventually began traveling through Italy. Much of what I encountered felt increasingly oriented toward tourism—beautiful, but hollow in daily life.

When I arrived in Grottole, the contrast was immediate. The village felt lived in rather than presented. People knew one another, daily life followed familiar rhythms, and the connection between land, work, and community was visible everywhere. Farming, food, and tradition were not cultural references, but part of how life functioned. These values resonated deeply with my own.

I met my partner, Iryna, while living in Ukraine, where my family roots also extend. Just before the war began, I urged her to leave while I was temporarily in the United States. She was able to do so in time. When we returned to Italy together, Grottole was her first experience of village life here. Coming from Kyiv, the scale and pace were a shock at first. Over time, however, she recognized familiar patterns—ways of living and working that echoed the traditions she had learned from her grandmother and mother.

Today, we live in Grottole and take part in village life as it exists. We work the land, participate in community events, and contribute where we can. Part of that has included volunteering time to help teach English to local adults and children. Our role here is not to change the village, but to be present, learn, and support the continuity of what already exists.

This website grew from that experience. It exists to share an honest picture of life in Grottole—for those who are curious, patient, and willing to understand a place on its own terms.

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Our story